The use of makeup for television [and film] is divided into three categories:
Basic - designed to compensate for undesirable changes in
appearance introduced by the television process.
Corrective - designed to enhance positive attributes and
downplay flaws.
Character - which introduces major changes in appearance.
Although people might think that makeup is reserved for
people "who just want to look better" on TV or in film, in actual
fact, makeup may be required to just retain a subject's normal appearance.
This is because the television and film processes to some
degree can introduce (or make obvious) undesirable attributes to skin tones and
features.
Some modern digital cameras have skin enhancing setup
options that can reduce, but generally not eliminate, the need for makeup. In
particular, they can appreciably smooth out wrinkles and conceal minor
blemishes.
Video editors may not always want to apply these ‘camera’ effects,
since they to some degree degrade optimum video sharpness, colour, and quality.
With the advent of high-definition television, the need for
people skilled in the application of effective but subtle makeup has increased.
As in most areas of television, makeup is an element that is best when it goes
unnoticed.
Basic Makeup
In both film and video work, makeup on the face and possibly
even the body is needed — especially for people who will be on camera any
length of time.
For starters, normal skin contains a certain amount of oil
that generally goes unnoticed until viewed in a close-up. This shine can be
exaggerated by the heat of studio lights and personal tension. At the very
least, subjects should use a face powder that matches their skin tone.
After this, we move to so-called basic makeup.
For this, the skin should first be cleaned with mild soap or
cleansing cream prior to the application of a makeup base or foundation.
Both are available in either oil or water base, but water
based make-up has the advantage of not requiring face powder and being easier
to remove.
Before these are applied, it's best to use an astringent to
tighten facial pores and prepare the skin.
A shade of base or foundation should be selected that
matches the normal skin tones, unless the goal is to slightly lighten or darken
all skin tones. In this case, it's best not to go beyond two shades lighter or
darker than the normal tone.
There are about 20 shades available, but if for some reason
the proper shade isn't available, shades can be mixed to provide an in-between
shade.
A foam rubber sponge, which can be moistened slightly, is
used to apply the base or foundation to the face, ears, and neck.
With deeply tanned Caucasian skin tones it may be necessary
to even out skin tones around the eyes or bridge of the nose by mixing the base
or foundation with a touch of rouge.
Other evidences of uneven tan, such as the halter strap
marks over the shoulders of a woman, should be filled in so they blend with
adjacent skin.
Even right after shaving, dark-haired men will evidence
"a five o'clock shadow" that can be reduced or eliminated by blending
in the foundation or makeup base.
If precautions are not taken, it is possible that makeup
applicators can transfer skin bacteria or even a rash from one person to
another.
To guard against this possibility disposable sponges, cotton
balls or quilted cotton squares should be used.
Makeup in containers can also be contaminated. To avoid
dipping an applicator back into the makeup container many makeup artists use
the back of their hands as a palette.
Makeup brushes should be cleaned before reuse with hair
shampoo or a commercial cleaner.
Lighting Considerations
Makeup should always
be checked, and if possible even applied, under the lighting that will be used
in photographing the subject.
Even when video cameras are properly color balanced,
sunlight, incandescent, and fluorescent lighting will all affect subject matter
in different ways. For this reason, many makeup mirrors have adjustments for
each of these types of light.
This consideration is particularly important with standard
fluorescent light (if you can't avoid that type of lighting) because these
lights tend to be low in red light and high in green.
Because normal skin tones contain a significant amount of
green to start with, you may note obvious green skin tones under standard
fluorescent light. The problem may be compounded if the makeup, itself, has
green elements.
This is just another reason that you should use a
high-quality, properly colour-balanced video monitor to check the results.
The Eyes
Eyebrows should be
brushed with a clean eyebrow brush and plucked of any stray or unruly hairs.
Though bushy eyebrows may be acceptable for men, women should carefully shape
their brows into a gentle arch that tapers off at the ends.
Making fine delicate strokes, use an eyebrow pencil of an
appropriate shade to fill in or reshape the eyebrows.
For women, a touch of eye shadow is almost always desirable.
The dry powder or cake type of eye shadow is preferred over the cream type,
since it both lends itself to easier and more subtle blending and holds up
better under hot studio lights.
Whether a woman's eye shadow should match her eyes, clothes,
or neither, is a fashion opinion, which can vary from season to season.
Whatever the colour choice, it should be subtle.
A darker shade of the same colour used on the eyelids (or a
soft brown shade) can be lightly brushed into the lid crease to add depth and
size to the eye.
Women with heavy-lidded eyes should avoid this last
technique because it will probably emphasize the problem. A dot of ivory or
pale yellow eye shadow smoothed under the brow bone will lighten and
"open" the eyes.
Eyeliner can be applied close to the top lashes either by
using a soft, fine brush or a sharp eyebrow pencil.
An eyelash curler and a light application of mascara will
accent eyelashes. Excess clumps of mascara should be removed with a few upward
strokes of a clean brush. False eyelashes can be used, but they should be
carefully trimmed to fit the individual's eyes.
The Lips
Another aspect of
particular importance to women is the proper selection of lipstick. Some types
of lipstick and rouge not designed for television have a latent blue hue, which
can take on a decided purple appearance when photographed. A pure red lipstick
that will harmonize with the skin coloration and wardrobe is best.
At the same time you will not want to chose a bright red
lipstick that will dominate the face and create a garish appearance.
Before applying lipstick, lips should be outlined by using
either a lipstick brush or a lip pencil. If the lips are well proportioned,
this accentuates them. But lip outlining can also be used as a corrective
technique.
People with either overly thin or full lips can improve
their lip line by first covering their lips with their base makeup and then
drawing or outlining a more desired shape. A lip brush should also be used to
give color to the entire lip.
After the application of lipstick, you should blot the lips
with a tissue to avoid an unnatural shine.
Lip gloss is generally undesirable for television. Although
lipstick is not generally used on men, it is sometimes appropriate to add a
touch of a natural-colored lipstick to smooth out a possible line between the
lips and the beginning of the base makeup. A brown shade of lipstick applied
with a brush is recommended.
Hands, Ears, and Teeth
If hands are to
appear on camera, as when products are demonstrated through close-ups, special
care must be taken.
Use an appropriate shade of makeup base to ensure that hands
match other parts of the body and to minimize wrinkles and colour variations.
Nails should be well manicured. Clear or coloured fingernail
polish can be used. The appearance of the hands should be carefully checked on
a TV monitor prior to a production. Extreme close-ups will often reveal makeup
flaws that are not normally visible.
Because they are often slightly lighter and redder than
adjacent skin tones, ears can be a special problem. Added to this is the fact
that back lights will often shine through ears to some degree, further raising
their tonal value.
To control this and bring ears back to their proper tonal
perspective, they should be covered with a base makeup that is two or three
shades darker than the face. The makeup base should then be covered with a
translucent face powder.
Bad teeth can be minimized with an appropriate shade of
tooth enamel or dentine fluid. Special coverings are available for this
purpose.
The Body
Since more and more
skin seems to be showing up in films and on TV, we need to mention parts of the
body other than the face and hands.
Elbows, knees, and ankles can look unnaturally dark unless
you use makeup to lighten these areas.
Using a Q-tip, or the edge of a sponge, stretch marks on the
stomach can be "painted in" to some degree with a liquid makeup two
to four shades lighter than the base. (See photo.)
With dark-haired individuals, areas of the body that have
been shaved will need the same treatment.
Scars and removed tattoos will take extra amounts of base or
foundation. Often, you can use liberal amounts the same shade as adjacent skin.
Dark-Skinned People
The makeup needs of
dark-skinned people are not greatly different from those that have been
outlined. Appropriate shades of makeup are available for most of the darker
skin tones; however, to arrive at the needed tone, it may be necessary to do
more in the way of blending different makeup shades.
Generally, makeup for dark-skinned people should be applied
sparingly. Black males and other males with dark skin may not need makeup at
all. They often photograph well without it.
Problems can arise, however, with very dark-skinned black
males who do not exhibit a natural skin sheen, since the tonal reflectance
level can drop so low that a loss of form and dimension results. It is
desirable to preserve these highlights, and occasionally even accent them with
baby oil or glycerin.
Concealing and Emphasizing Facial Features With
Corrective Makeup
Through corrective
makeup procedures it may be necessary to play down undesirable facial features
and emphasize positive attributes through contouring and highlighting.
In corrective makeup we are starting with the base or
foundation and then blending in shades or makeup that are either darker or
lighter.
In contouring, a
darker shade of makeup than the foundation or base is used to downplay
features, such as a high forehead or an overly prominent nose.
Contouring can also be used to bring out the classic jaw
line that's seen as desirable for women.
In this case, a darker shade of makeup is carefully blended
into the foundation or base. To achieve this "classic look," the
darker makeup will go from the chin line up to the earlobes and into the
hollows of the cheeks.
In highlighting, the
object is to reverse this effect — to emphasize or pull the eye toward certain
facial features or areas. In this case, use a shade of makeup that is lighter
than the foundation or base.
This approach should also be used in shadowy areas under the
eyes and under the lower lip to keep them from looking unusually dark on
camera. Either use makeup two to three shades lighter than the base, or a
translucent white highlighter.
In the case of both men and women, colour can be added to
the cheeks by mixing a very light trace of rouge with the existing base makeup
and then blending it in with a sponge.
After all this is
done, it's often necessary to use some transparent powder to dull down some
(but not all) of the facial sheen. This is normally applied with a powder puff
or soft bristled brush.
Sometimes there will be light spots on the skin, due to
aging or whatever, that can be covered with a tanning spray, such as Walgreens
Deep Dark Tan Sunless Tanning Spray carefully painted on with a Q-tip. The
spray rather than the lotion is best for this.
Since it takes a number of hours — even up to a day — before
the effect becomes noticed, this is a technique that definitely requires
planning ahead. And, since results aren't immediately apparent and last several
days, you need to experiment with this technique well in advance of going on
camera.
However, once mastered, this represents a relatively
inexpensive and convenient way of keeping this type of skin discoloration
hidden. Prescription skin dye is also available, for this purpose, but it's
quite expensive.
Makeup Removal
Women may prefer to
leave makeup on after leaving the TV studio. Unlike stage makeup, it should be
so natural looking that there should be no need to remove it, especially early
in the day.
Men, being a bit more sensitive to these things, will
probably want to remove makeup with a cleansing cream or lotion.
After removing makeup, women may want to use an astringent
to condition their skin. Men can use aftershave lotion for the same purpose.
Character Makeup
Character makeup covers great range, from adding or
subjecting years, to today's grisly science fiction and horror-film
transformations. It would take a good-sized book to cover character makeup;
and, in fact, numerous books have been written on the subject.
Since it has limited application in day-to-day production
work, we well simply use the following photos to give you an idea of what can
be done.
Note that the young man shown above can be transformed into
an old man through the use of elaborate makeup and prostheses (and a few hours'
work).
In this case, a bald cap is first used to cover up the young
man's hair (first photo). At that point, prostheses are used to add wrinkles
and sagging areas to the face.
Then liberal amounts of makeup are then painted on to blend
everything together. Although it may sound simple, character makeup can easily
take many hours to apply.